Vietnamese CookbookBếp Việt · The Vietnamese Kitchen

Stuffed Cabbage Rolls

Bắp cải cuộn thịt

Cabbage leaves tied with scallion around a pork-and-mushroom filling in a clear broth — a northern dish carried to the highlands by 1954 resettlers and never let go.

By Vietnamese Cookbook Kitchen · May 1, 2026

The Central HighlandsPartition & War era, 1945–1975

Stuffed Cabbage RollsGỏi
Prep
40 min
Cook
30 min
Serves
4
Level
Intermediate

The central highlands are not, on paper, cabbage country — that's a northern crop, suited to cooler air than most of the region gets. It grows there anyway, in the highland microclimates around Đà Lạt, for a reason that has more to do with people than soil: after the 1954 Geneva Accords divided Việt Nam and sent close to a million people south, a share of them settled in these hills rather than the lowland cities, chasing a climate that felt more like the north they'd left behind. They planted what they knew, and bắp cải cuộn thịt — cabbage rolls in clear broth — came with them.

It is, unmistakably, a northern dish: restrained, broth-forward, built on the same instinct for clean flavors that runs through Hanoi cooking rather than the sweeter, bolder hand of the south. The scallion tie is the detail that gives it away — a technique for holding a roll shut without touching a single foreign object, learned in one kitchen and carried, apparently, over a thousand kilometers. Eaten hot with the broth still steaming, it tastes like a specific migration, still going on a plate.

Tie the rolls with a single blanched scallion strand, not string — it cooks into the dish instead of coming off it, and it tells you, at a glance, that the cook who made this one learned it from someone who cared.

Lời đầu bếp · A word from the kitchen

Ingredientsnguyên liệu

Serves 4

The rolls

  • 8large green cabbage leavesouter leaves, whole — blanched until pliable, thick rib shaved thin so they roll without cracking
  • 8scallionsthe green tops only, blanched 10 seconds until limp, for tying
  • 300 gground pork10 oz, not too lean — some fat keeps the filling from drying out
  • 15 gdried wood ear mushroomabout 1/3 cup soaked, then minced fine
  • 20 gdried shiitake mushroom2–3 pieces soaked, minced fine
  • 30 gglass noodles (miến)1 oz, soaked until pliable, chopped short
  • 1shallot, minced
  • 1egg
  • 1 tbspfish sauce
  • To tasteblack pepper to taste

The broth

  • 1 Lpork or chicken stockabout 4 cups, made from bones if you have it, or good store-bought
  • 1 tbspfish sauce
  • To tastesalt and white pepper to taste
  • 2 tbspcilantro or scallion, chopped, for garnish

Methodcách làm

  1. Step 1: Prepare the leaves

    Blanch the cabbage leaves in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes until pliable, then shock in cold water. Shave down the thick center rib with a knife so each leaf folds flat without tearing.

  2. Step 2: Mix the filling

    Combine the ground pork, minced mushrooms, glass noodles, shallot, egg, fish sauce, and pepper, mixing in one direction until the filling turns slightly sticky. That stickiness is what holds each roll together without needing to overwork the meat.

  3. Step 3: Roll and tie

    Place 2 to 3 tablespoons of filling at the base of each leaf, fold in the sides, and roll into a tight cylinder. Tie each roll with a blanched scallion strand — it holds the shape through simmering and disappears into the dish rather than getting fished out at the table.

  4. Step 4: Simmer in broth

    Bring the stock to a gentle simmer, season with fish sauce and salt, and lower the rolls in seam-side down. Simmer uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling is cooked through and the cabbage has gone tender and translucent at the edges.

  5. Step 5: Serve in the broth

    Ladle two or three rolls per bowl with plenty of the clear broth, finished with white pepper and a scatter of cilantro or scallion. This is a spoon-and-chopsticks dish, eaten hot, broth included.

Đồ nghề · The tools

Equipment

All kitchen tools →
  • Portable gas burner

    Bếp ga mini

    Lẩu is not lẩu if someone has to keep walking to the stove. The tabletop butane burner turns a pot of broth into a two-hour dinner party.

    Shop on Amazon →
  • Mandoline

    Bàn bào

    Đồ chua lives or dies on evenness — carrot and daikon cut to the same whisper-thin matchstick pickle at the same speed. Use the guard; every Vietnamese grandmother has the scar that says otherwise.

    Shop on Amazon →
  • Long cooking chopsticks

    Đũa bếp

    Extra-long chopsticks for turning frying rolls, loosening noodles, and plucking herbs — the Vietnamese kitchen’s default hand, kept a safe distance from the oil.

    Shop on Amazon →

Equipment links are Amazon affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no cost to you. Disclosure.

Questions from the kitchen

Why is this dish tied to 1954?

After the 1954 Geneva Accords split Việt Nam, roughly a million people moved south, and a meaningful number resettled in the central highlands, drawn by cheaper land and a climate closer to the north they'd left. They brought northern dishes with them, cabbage rolls in clear broth among them — a genuinely northern preparation that took root far from home and stayed part of highland cooking since.

Can I make the rolls ahead?

Yes — assemble and tie the rolls up to a day ahead and refrigerate uncovered on a tray, then simmer them fresh in hot broth when you're ready to serve. Don't simmer them ahead and reheat; the cabbage turns from tender to mushy the second time around.

What can I use instead of wood ear and shiitake?

Fresh mushrooms work in a pinch — double the volume, since dried mushrooms concentrate flavor that fresh ones haven't developed. You lose the specific chewy-meets-earthy texture the dried versions give the filling, but the dish still holds together.

Nấu tiếp · Cook next